The Flame Game

Fun, festival, multiethnic cuisine… The waiters set dishes on fire… Bonnie Davidson writes in the Dish du Jour section of IN New York, “A vaulted tin ceiling, zinc bar (offering 102 cognacs by the glass) and baguette tower topped with round oversized clocks are the first-but certainly not the only-attention-grabbing elements you encounter at Brasserie Cognac, a classic Parisian outpost near …